Zen and the Art of Prop Making

A realistic flame effect can be obtained with orange coloured lights shining on white pieces of silk fluttering in the air above an electric fan. This is an old theatrical trick that is still convincing today. It’s suitable anywhere you want a realistic flame effect without the inherent danger of using real flames. It is ideal for theatre, parties or special events. Steps in creating a realistic flame effect The following steps are a general guide only and each situation will be different. The basic principles in creating a realistic flame effect remain the same. Step 1 A metal fire cradle is first constructed to look like a typical fireplace. The dimensions will depend on your particular application. This fire was designed to fit inside a moveable timber fireplace that was used in an Opera Australia production of “La Voix Humane” in 2005. Step 2 The success of the effect depends on a quiet electric fan. A large volume of air is needed to blow several pieces of silk. C...

There are many occasions in theatre and film where latex bladders of a specific shape and size are needed for props or special effects. Sometimes a commercial product can be adapted but generally they need to be made This simple technique can be adapted to make latex bladders for any situation. The steps involved in the process were originally developed for the construction of a spurting blood razor for the 1998 Opera Australia production of "Sweeney Todd". Steps to make latex bladders The following steps illustrate the principle of making latex bladders for a specific purpose. They can be adjusted as necessary to adapt to the intended use required. Step 1 The original CAD drawings of the razor were used to produce DXF files and the razor part were laser cut in aluminium. When the parts were assembled the handle had a hollow recess into which a clear Perspex trigger handle could slide. Squeezing the trigger handle into the body of the razor compressed the blood fi...

One of the things I always like to point out to prospective prop makers is that it is important to put yourself into the position of the actor or peformer who will be using the prop. The reason for this is that all too often a prop is built or *fixed* with no consideration as to how it will be used. This can be disasterous for a performer when a prop fails during a performance. Another consideration is how they will be handled. The precious prop you have put hours of creative work into has to be treated carefully and with respect, right? Unfortunately the reality is they can be treated very roughly during performances particularly if some other problem crops up during a show. The poor prop usually takes the brunt of the performers angst! When not being used there is not a lot of thought given to caring for the props and they are usually thrown into a box or placed in a corner where they are exposed to all sorts of accidental damage. By putting yourself into the mindset of ...

One of the more interesting stories to come out of World War Two was that of a B-24D Liberator bomber called the "Lady Be Good" which failed to return from a mission to Italy in 1943. A search failed to find any trace of the plane or its crew of nine. The wreckage of the plane was discovered 15 years later in the Libyan Desert. It was another two years before the remains of all but one of the nine crew were discovered. The plane had become lost in the darkness and eventually ran out of fuel leaving the crew no choice but to parachute into the darkness. The plane eventually crash landed 16 miles south of where the crew had safely landed. Inspiration from the "Lady be Good" The story became the plot for an opera based on the fact that the body of the ninth crew member was never found. "Madeline Lee" was a one act Australian opera, composed by John Haddock to a libretto written by the composer and Michael Campbell. It premiered at the Sydney Opera Hous...

A latex mould is a nice compromise between a fibreglass mould and a silicone mould. They take a little longer to make but they are more flexible than a solid fibreglass mould and much cheaper than silicone rubber. A latex mould will deteriorate over time since it is a rubber compound but thisis generally not an issue. As with fibreglass moulds you can have several sections bolted together. Small undercuts are not a problem with latex because of it's flexibility. Step by step latex mould making For a description of latex mould making we will make a two part mould of a deer head. The following steps are the general ones to follow regardless of what you are moulding. Step 1 Build a flange around the middle of the head where the mould will split. Fill all gaps with plasticene so that there is a clean right angle join between the object surface and the flange. This minimises any join marks when the two halves are bolted together. It's a good idea to place a few small 12m...

Plaster moulds are the easiest and cheapest of all moulds to make. They are also the heaviest and most fragile. There are two ways of making them. The first is to make a waterproof box around your object, pour in the plaster mix and wait for it to set. The second uses plaster bandage which is normally used to set broken limbs. Steps in making boxed plaster moulds Following is a step by step process in making boxed plaster moulds . They are very straight forward and require no special equipment or chemicals. All that is needed to make plaster moulds is plaster of Paris and some scrap timber to make the box section to hold the plaster mix until it sets. Step 1 Fasten your object to the middle of a smooth, flat piece of wood. Make a waterproof timber dam around it a couple of inches higher than the object. Use plasticene to fill all the undercuts on the object and any gaps between it and the base board. Take extra care doing this because it makes for a better mould. This is very ...

A plaster mould is the easiest and cheapest of all moulds to make. They are also the heaviest and most fragile. There are two basic ways of making them. The method described here is to use plaster bandage which is normally used to set broken limbs. The other method is to pour the plaster into a mould box which is described in another post on Plaster Mould Making . Simplicity of plaster bandage moulds A plaster bandage mould is useful when taking moulds of body parts because it dries quickly and has no harmful solvents. Plaster bandage can also be applied directly to an object without having to make special dams or walls to contain it. To save money it can also be used as a support jacket in lieu of fibreglass when making a latex mould. Step 1 For the purpose of description we will take a plaster cast of a foot. You need to put a release agent onto the skin to prevent the plaster sticking on skin or hairs. Even though it's messy, petroleum jelly is the best to use. Ev...

A silicone mould is much more forgiving with undercuts than one made from fibreglass because they are so flexible. A silicone mould is used more for casting urethane foams and resins to make solid objects. They are excellent for making bottles and glasses and usually have a cut down one side to make it easier to remove the cast. A wooden box or tube is used around the mould to support the silicone rubber when it is filled with casting material. A silicone mould is easy to make but the materials are expensive. You need to balance the size of your object with the size of your wallet. That being said they are robust moulds and can give many impressions. For the purpose of description we will make a mould of a engine cylinder head for a full-size prop replica of a Wright Cyclone radial engine. Cylinder head silicone mould The following steps describe the construction of a silicone mould and casting of a prop cylinder head for an aeroplane engine. This replica Wright Cyclone engine...

A simple as hoc lathe can be made in a matter of hours to turn polystyrene foam. You will need access to a MIG welder, metalwork tools and some scrap RHS steel to make the frame and bracket to mount the drive motor.The size of the frame of the simple lathe will depend on the size of the block of polystyrene you will be working with. Fitting polystyrene to the simple lathe Prepare the polystyrene block for the simple lathe by glueing two circular pieces of 12mm plywood on both the ends of the block. This gives a solid mounting point to fit the polystyrene into the lathe. The long edges of the block are trimmed at 45 degrees to make it easier for the initial turning. Step 1 The heart of the lathe is an electric motor that has a small pulley fitted to its shaft. I used an electric motor from an old gem tumbling machine but any electric motor that is available is suitable as long as it has enough torque to turn the polystyrene block. A larger pulley on a short shaft is fitted thro...